In this post: How to make a DIY coffered ceiling that looks professionally done for less than $500* – with NO crown molding!

Sponsored project with help from The Home Depot.

Trim and wainscoting and coffered ceilings are all architectural elements that can elevate the look and feel of a home. Typically, they are all upgrades that can cost a small fortune too. But not in this case! We made our DIY coffered ceiling for less than $500 by swapping out crown molding for stacked cheaper trim!

diy coffered ceiling

Why We Wanted a DIY Coffered Ceiling

Before we bought this house, we traipsed through a lot of houses. We visited model home after model home, went to open houses and had our sweet realtor take us to see all the houses.

We originally thought we wanted a century home because of all the character that they typically have. However after visiting many of them I couldn’t get past the small rooms and gross basements. Then one particularly beautiful century home caught our eye. It was made over top to bottom, and it had been moved so it sat upon a brand spanking new basement. We almost put an offer on it, but it really was beyond our price range so we sadly left it behind.

After that we stopped looking at old houses and started looking for a new build. We even had a floor plan all picked out. Funnily enough that’s when we found the house we now live in – with almost the exact same floor plan as the model we had picked out!

Anyway, after we purchased this house (while we were waiting to move in) we kept visiting model homes in the area – only now it was to scope out the finishing trim and moldings! Which is how we were inspired to install this DIY coffered ceiling within the tray ceiling in our dining room.

DIY Coffered Ceiling Tutorial

DIY Coffered Ceiling


*We’re assuming you have these tools and didn’t include the cost of tools in the cost of this project.
  • Sliding compound mitre saw
  • Brad nailer
  • Level
  • Stud finder
  • Drill
  • Caulking gun
  • Tape measure
  • Square


*Amounts will vary based on the size of your room.
  • Paper
  • Pencil
  • 2″ nails for Brad nailer
  • 1 1/2″ nails for Brad nailer
  • 2 1/2″ flat head screws
  • Alex Plus paintable window and door caulking
  • 3M Patch Plus Primer
  • 1″ x 16″ x 8′ pine ‘shelving’
  • 1″ x 4″ x 8′ pine
  • 1″ x 6″ x 8′ pine
  • 1″ x 3 1/2″ primed MDF
  • 150′ x 5 1/4″ MDF baseboard
  • 450′ x 1 1/4″ primed pine door stop (or whatever is cheapest, this replaces the need for crown moulding)
  • white paint
  • paint brush
  • paint roller


The following instructions are for a basic grid pattern. If you want something else (like a square in the middle or octagons), you will need to modify our instructions or find a tutorial that uses that sort of coffered ceiling plan. Our instructions also assume you are either installing the DIY coffered ceiling in an entire room (and have four walls to extend the coffered ceiling to) or that you have an existing tray ceiling like we did in our dining room to contain the coffered ceiling. Measurements will vary depending upon the size of your room.

Building the base

1. Find and mark your ceiling joists with a pencil and a stud finder. Be sure to keep these in mind when planning your coffered ceiling layout as you will need to mount your brackets to the joists.

2. Draw a rough sketch of how you want your DIY coffered ceiling to look to help you visualize. Like I mentioned we wanted a basic grid. But you may want something else, so be sure to sketch it out.

3. Measure your ceiling space, and draw it to scale on a piece of paper. Using your rough sketch as a guide, draw your coffered ceiling. After much discussion, we decided to treat our ceiling like a basic box when creating the grid, and then just shortened the sections that extended to the angled portions of our tray ceiling.

4. Using a level and a pencil draw the basic grid plan on the ceiling. (See photo below.)

pencil marks on ceiling

5. Next you need to make the larger cross support brackets. These will be completely hidden once your ceiling is finished and are made from a combination of the pine (from the supply list). The overall size for each is 15 1/4″ x 15 1/4″ x 4 9/16″. For each cross support bracket cut one piece of 3 1/2″ pine to 15 1/4″ and two pieces to 5 7/8″. From the 1″ x 16″ pine, cut two pieces to 3 7/8″ x 15 1/4″ and four pieces to 3 7/8″ x 5 7/8″. Tack the cross support bracket together using the Brad nailer as shown in the image below. Add twenty 2 1/2″ flat head screws to reinforce the wood bracket.

6. Repeat step 5 for as many junctions as your coffered ceiling design requires (we needed four).

cross boxes on ceiling

7. Next create the smaller support brackets. Using the 3 1/2″ pine, cut one piece 6″ long. Using the 1″ x 16″ pine, cut two pieces 3 7/8″ x 6″. Tack the cross support bracket together using the Brad nailer as shown in the image below. Add four 2 1/2″ flat head screws to reinforce the wood bracket.

8. Repeat step 7 for as many supports as your coffered ceiling design requires (we needed twenty).

9. Using your penciled in ceiling layout as a guide, tack the brackets in place using the 2″ nails and the Brad nailer. Make sure they are all in line and straight as you go (use a straight edge/level to help if needed).

10. Using a drill and 2 1/2″ flat head screws, screw the brackets into the previously marked joists.

all base boxes on ceiling

Creating the grid

11. Attach lengths of 1″ x 3 1/2″ MDF to the bottoms of the wood support brackets as shown below. The outside of the MDF and the support brackets should be flush.

12. Measure and cut to fit the baseboards for each “box” in your coffered ceiling. Mitre the corners to fit as well.

13. Tack baseboards in place using 1 1/2″ nails and the Brad nailer. MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL BASEBOARDS UPSIDE DOWN! Repeat for each section of your coffered ceiling. *

*We left a 1/8″ gap at the top because I wanted the baseboards to sit below the MDF a little for extra visual interest.

adding upside down baseboard to coffered ceiling

Trimming it out

As I mentioned we didn’t use any crown moulding on our coffered ceiling. This was actually due to both budget and to the spacing of the existing pot lights (which we freshened up with newer bulbs that are flush with the ceiling instead of the old school inset look).

14. Cut pieces of the pine door stop to act as spacers and tack onto baseboard tight to the ceiling, as shown below.

15. Next cut lengths of door stop to fit each box (with mitered corners) and mount with Brad nailer BELOW the spacers just added.

16. Then cut lengths of doors top to fit each box (with mitered corners) and mount with Brad nailer ON TOP of the spacers, just overlapping the pieces added in step 15. See photo below.

Finish and Caulk

17. Use the 3M Patch Plus Primer and your finger to fill all the nail holes. Let dry and then sand where necessary (wipe off any resulting dust).

18. Using the Alex Plus, the caulking gun and your finger, fill alllllll of the cracks and gaps and joints. This is the key to a professional looking coffered ceiling (and any trim job for that matter)!

white farmhouse dining room

19.  Using a combination of a quality paint brush, roller and paint, paint the entire ceiling and all the trim work.

white grid coffered ceiling

NO Crown Molding Coffered Ceiling

So while this DIY coffered ceiling isn’t quite a beginner project, it is doable if you have about medium DIYing skills.

And it adds a TON of character and style to a space!

Of course the coffered ceiling looks much nicer with the new chandelier (updating light fixtures was one of the ways we updated this space).

DIY Coffered Ceiling

To see our updated dining room, go here

Now I’m really curious, do you have anywhere that you could put a coffered ceiling in your house? If so, where would you put it?

shannon photo and sig oct 2022

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  1. Hi Shannon – This is the best DIY I have seen in a long time!!! WOWO!!!! You did a fabulous job….the room looks completely different…a real classic now.

  2. LOVE IT!!!! Thanks for the instructions!
    How tall are your ceilings? I wonder if mine are too short and it will make it look shorter.

  3. I love a coffered ceiling! I wanted to put one in our game room that we recently remodeled but it wasn’t in the budget. The way you did definitely changes the game. Looks amazing! Great job!

  4. Well done! We have a very simple coffered ceiling in our dining room which is how I got a flavor for it – I may be referencing your tutorial very soon! What you’ve done is stunning!!

  5. It looks sooooo amazing! I love it!!! I have a question – in our home we have California ceilings….. every where. And seriously, I am so over them. I think it’s the drywaller’s answer to quick and easy hiding of flaws….. Have you ever heard of how to get rid of them?
    Thanks Shannon – as always you rock!

    1. Yeah, lots of people have those and very likely because they do hide drywalling flaws. Some people scrape them off, some cover them with a thin board or drywall or beadboard, depending on the room. We’ve never actually removed any – it was always way down the list at our other houses. We sort of lucked out and this house doesn’t have any at all because it’s circa 1999. Good luck, dear Faye!

  6. Wow! Talk about awesome! I love this room! Thank you for sharing such a tutorial broken down into detailed steps that are understandable. I haven’t seen an explanation like this since the days of DIY TV. You knocked it out of the park!

    1. I had never actually paid them much attention until we were looking at model homes and then this house with the tray ceiling! Now I’m so glad I noticed them.

    1. Lol. Well Dean makes it look easy! Truthfully it was a fabulous project, not super simple, but easy enough to make it well worth the results.

  7. WOW I love this!!!!! I’m a sucker for any type of trim work / wall treatment / custom looking DIYs. This looks amazing! I can’t believe how professional it looks. This is prob going to go on my home DIY wishlist now. 🙂

    >> Christene
    Keys to Inspiration

  8. This turned out beautifully! I really love the added character. We are on our second new home build and it’s so easy to think “We can’t add that character…” Thank you for the inspiration!

    1. Oh you so can!!! Bigger baseboards, panel mouldings, coffered ceilings, nicer trim. 🙂

  9. Wow i love this! I followed the link from Emily Henderson’s page. We just purchased a home built in 1902 but they completely removed all the character and charm during a 2000’s remodel. This totally gives me some inspiration to it add back in!

  10. Looks great!! would love to build it. I dont see how you attached the brackets to the ceiling studs. You said you drilled screw holes and screwed it in but i dont any of them in the pictures you attached.
    Also, how did you ensure the coffered beams aligned with the ceiling studs. for the room I am thinking of doing, it does not align well.


    1. Hi Sam! The wood brackets that we built are attached to the ceiling inside the brackets, out of sight. Sort of in the middle of the brackets. Our grid was made to work with where the ‘ceiling studs’ or joists are. You will need to adjust your grid to accommodate the location of your ceiling’s framing. The coffered ceiling must be attached to joists/studs and will not work otherwise.

    2. Hi Shannon
      Thanks for all the information you posted here, I was able to build mine for under $400 following your technique. Mine doesn’t have that many coffers hence was able to build it a bit cheaper.

      Check it out here

      I have yet to put the finishing touches on it (caulk and paint)


  11. Amazing Shannon! I wanted to do it in my family room which is 16 ft high, what kind of ladders or any structures are best that I can stand on, with spacious room to turn around?

  12. This looks absolutely stunning! I’m planning to do mine but getting confused on one step. How did you handle to have perfect design and they all fall on the joist too? My perfect design doesn’t fall well on the joists. If I follow joists measurement then one of my rows doesn’t come out well. Any insight please?

    1. Hi Derek. I’ve asked Dean – my hubby and construction guy! – to give this a thought for you. I’ll let you know as soon as he can get me an answer!

    2. Hi again, Derek! So, without seeing your space, our recommendation would be to make the cross support brackets longer in (at least) one direction to so that both ends can be screwed into the joists. I hope that makes sense? If not, shoot us an email and we can try to help further.

    1. Do you have video to show how to complete this? Also, the last part is confusing? The inner molding, how is that done? I don’t really understand the photos. Btw: It looks beautiful.

    2. Unfortunately, we do not have a video. The inner molding is layered door stop. I’m not sure how to describe it more than already described and shown in the post? Essentially it’s doorstop right up at the ceiling to create a base, then one below that, and then another right up at the ceiling on top of the base one. This creates the layered crown molding look for less.

    1. The question really should be the dimensions of the ceiling to be able to compare the amount of material needed. We bought the material for the brackets last night…so excited!!!

  13. Great post! I’ve been using this page as a reference for a mini tray/coffered ceiling design for my small entryway. I saw that you have 8′ ceilings and the baseboards you chose were the perfect sized thickness to match your space! It looks gigantic in there!

  14. This is an awesome tutorial. Except I feel like I need an extra 2 pictures on steps 15 and 16 to understand exactly what you did and what surfaces you were nailing the trim pieces into 😬. Thanks for taking the time to show how you did this.

  15. This is gorgeous! We have a large step down bonus room/ den with a massive fireplace. Because it’s a step down it has higher ceilings than the rest of the house. I’ve been wanting to do this in that room for so long! Now to get my husband on board with it. I think it’s so worth the cost and the work.