In this post: How to DIY a Brickmaker Coffee Table.

You have all been so patient!

Since we posted the reveal of our Restoration Hardware Inspired DIY Brickmaker’s Coffee Table, a few of you have emailed and messaged asking when the DIY post would be up.

Well, here it is!

Better late than never, right?

Restoration Hardware Inspired DIY Brickmaker's Coffee Table


My hubby Dean works in sheet metal for those of you who are new around here. BUT for this coffee table we wanted to come up with a metal-looking option that didn’t actually require metal, or your very own sheet metal worker!

So our table is made entirely of wood – legs and all!

DIY Brickmaker’s Coffee Table

brickmaker's table dimensions


  • 4 – 2″x6″x8′ pine
  • 2 – 2″x2″x8′ pine
  • 2 – 2″x2″x8′ pine
  • 1 – 2″x2″x4′ pine
  • 4 – 3/8″ plated hex bolts, 1 1/2″ long
  • 2โ€ finishing nails
  • #8 flathead screws 2 1/2″ long
  • dark walnut stain
  • white paint
  • water
  • grey stain
  • Rustoleum Metallic Accents paint in rich brown

Cut List

  • 8 – 2″x6″x45″ pine (table top)
  • 4 – 2″x2″x45″ pine (top and bottom of frame)
  • 4 – 2″x2″x42″ pine (top and bottom of frame)
  • 4 –  2″x2″x11″ pine (legs)


  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • compound miter saw
  • hammer
  • drill & drill bits
  • 7/8″ spade bit
  • paint brushes


1. Once your materials are cut to size, build two squares from the 2″x2″x43″s and 2″x2″x45″s. Simply nail together with finishing nails and hammer. This will be the top and bottom of the “metal” frame.

top and bottom base

2. Add vertical pieces (legs) as shown below, also affixing with nails.

top and bottom with legs

3. Begin adding top pieces as shown, adding screws from bottom so they aren’t seen. Leave 1/8″ between each board.

adding top

adding top 2

4. To add hex bolts, after assembly pre-drill 1/8″ holes into tabletop’s side 12 1/2″ from end. Repeat at other end. Repeat for two holes on opposite side. This is to guide the larger holes. Using spade bit centered on 1/8″ holes, drill 1/2″ depth to sink hex bolt. Then using 3/8″ drill bit, pre-drill the bolt hole. See photo below.

hex bolts

Finishing Instructions

The finish on this table is what makes it extraordinary, in my opinion. The legs are painted to look like metal and the top is coated with several layers of stain and white/grey washes.

1. Paint base and legs with Rustoleum Metallic Accents paint in rich brown. Apply two coats if necessary. Let dry.

painted legs unfinished top

2. Dark stain the table top using the dark walnut. Let dry.

For a step-by-step tutorial on how to stain wood, check out this post.  

3. Apply a coat of grey stain. Let dry.

4. Mix about a tablespoon of white paint into about a 1/2 cup of water. Use this to white wash over the stained table top boards. Let dry. Repeat steps 2-4 if desired as I did a few times for many layers of stain/paint.

stain and whitewash

And that is  – finally  – the DIY Brickmaker’s Table tutorial!

aka design living room

Want to create your own gorgeous makeovers?

Check out our DIY Paint Finishes and Techniques guide.

It includes 12 of our most popular paint finishes and techniques all in one place! Includes photos, supply lists and how to get the looks we feature on our blog Home Made Lovely all the time! 

DIY Paint Finishes and Techniques pages for blog

shannon pixie photo and signature

home made lovely book on table with get it now text button

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  1. Shannon,
    That is AMAZING! From the pic of them side by side I really couldn’t tell the difference. Back to the hardware store I go! Thanks for sharing ๐Ÿ™‚
    Hugs & Blessings …

    1. Thank you, Donna! I’m sure you enjoyed your holiday – glad to have you back in blogland though!

  2. Wow! I am in awe of this table. Saw it the other day on Instagram and then just saw it again on An Upcycled Link Party and I had to come check it out. I am for sure pinning this one….I absolutely love the color you got from staining this so I am for sure going to use that possibly on my future DIY dining table.

  3. This is great! I just made it. Although, I had to add L braces on the angles, and add screws on the bottom. (You can’t see any of them so it was no biggie) Finishing nails were not solid at all. Did you have this issue?

    1. No we didn’t have that issue. And our table is well used with homeschool books or feet propped up on it all the time! I’m glad you found a solution.

  4. I’m so excited to have found this DIY. Have been swooning over this table ever since I saw it at RH. My husband found some old thick, tongue and groove boards from an old stable in his wood stash! Woo-hoo! TY for the post! Will send you pics of the finished product!

  5. Great post!! Thank you for the step by step instruction. I actually started mine couple days ago but somehow I found it difficult to nail the frame together (almost broke the 2×2 and the nail still did not want to get in!) So I opted to screw instead of nails. I might have used the wrong nail though, would you mind to let me know what brand and spec of nail you were using?

    Anyway, thank you again for the post!

    1. They were finishing nails – which means they were very small and not prone to splitting wood!

    2. I assumed it should be 2 1/2″ of finishing nails? I will try it again for my next project!!!!!

    3. Hi Shannon,

      I’ve finished the step of putting a layer of dark walnut stain, I used Rust-Oleum Dark Walnut. The finish came out really creamy and thick (pretty much like paint) and is far different than yours. Would you mind let me know what brand and type of stain you were using?


      Charlie C

    4. If you used a water based stain it will be thick and creamy like paint. I used Minwax oil-based stain. Always do. It sticks like crazy but it’s SO good!

  6. Thanks for the inspiration and details! I made this last week altering the size a bit and adding wood across the bottom.
    We are loving it!!!!
    I’d love to share a pic, but I don’t know how ๐Ÿ˜‰

  7. Thank you much for this! We just built the table and love it! But we are having an issue with sap still coming out of the wood. I was going to add another polyurethane coat on it, but wanted to see if you have any other suggestions.

    1. Oh dear. I’m sorry. Ours never did that so I’m not sure wat to tell you. ๐Ÿ™

  8. Hey Shannon what an amazing diy Thankyou I’m just curious what brand you used for the dark walnut and also the black you used on the base!!

    1. I always use Minwax Dark Walnut. As the post describes the legs and base are painted with Rustoleum Metallic Accents paint in rich brown. ๐Ÿ™‚

  9. Hi Shannon!
    I’m a new subscriber to your site and I adore DIY! In fact, my current coffee table is a DIY from Christopher Lowell back when. I’m kind of getting tired of it (just admitting that makes me feel like I’m betraying an old friend) and this project makes me drool. I’m learning to use all the tools my husband has, but sometimes I still need his help. ๐Ÿ™‚ Anyway, thanks so much for the beautiful project!

  10. Hi, Thank you for share this amazing project!
    I’m about to do the same finish on a DIY table and was wondering if you seal it with any wax or polyurethane.
    Thank you!

    1. No, we didn’t. You could if you’d like, but it may change the look of the finish.

  11. I love this look and would love to do this for my dining room table. Any suggestions on what to use to seal or protect it after that would keep that same look or coloring?

  12. This table was so nice and simple to build! However I followed the instructions exactly, and the colour came out nothing like the picture. Much darker and a more burned ash colour. So that was dissapointing

    1. I’m really sorry your color didn’t come out identical. What type of wood did you build your table from?

    2. Hi Shannon- just wanting to make sure when i do this project that I use the correct stain. The link on the blog post takes me to a rust-oleum water based stain, but I read in the comments that you always use oil based? Is the grey and walnut stain that you use also from rust-oleum, and are they all oil based? Thank you so much, can’t wait to build our new coffee table!!

    3. My apologies- I read through again and saw that the legs are painted, and the top pieces are done with the oil based stain.

  13. Love this table, I am ready to paint my unfinished coffee table. Scared to dive in , but ready for the challenge.

  14. I read in the comments of another one of your posts that you had used 9 layers of stain on this table. Could you elaborate a little more on the staining process? Did you do 1 layer of the dark walnut, followed by 9 layers of gray stain to get the weathered look? Also, did you wait the recommended 4-6 hours before applying another coat of stain?

    The table is absolutely beautiful. I’m looking forward to trying to reproduce this look.


    1. Hello and thank you! In the finishing step-by-step I do say repeat steps 2-4 if desired. I repeated those steps a few times to get a good layering of stain/paint. ๐Ÿ™‚


    1. Hi Patty. The top pieces are not attached to each other but rather screwed to the base from the underside.

  16. Dear Shannon, thanks so much for sharing this idea, cannot wait to do my own one! I just have a couple questions:
    Don’t you need to seal it in the end with something, e.g. wax? If someone spills a drink, won’t it soak into the wood and discolor it?
    Why do we need to leave a tiny gap between the boards? Is it because this is how it was on the other table in the shop, or it’s because wood is still changing after the paint (though I would think it shrinks as it dries)?
    The bolt is only for decoration purposes, right? ๐Ÿ˜€

    Thanks so much!

    1. Hello Leila,

      You could seal it if you like. We had so many layers of paint and stain on it that it never seemed to make a difference if it got spilled on. We liked the gap in the boards. But also whether the wood shrank or grew would depend a bit on the weather and when you build it. Much like doors in a house that change size ever so slightly with the weather (thus bumps and cracks and such), the wood on the table will do the same. And yes, the bolts in our case were only for decoration!

  17. I made this table this weekend and the base is super wobbly. The table is not sturdy at all and the finishing nails don’t hold. Any suggestions for how I can fix this? I’m really disappointed that after all that work the table is unusable. Other than disassembling it and rebuilding the base using something better than finishing nails, I don’t know what to do.

    1. Hello Ashley,

      Iโ€™m sorry your table didnโ€™t turn out as expected. I can understand how disappointing that would be!

      May I ask if you changed anything at all from our instructions? Did you change dimensions? Or wood size? Did you screw the top pieces to the frame in all four sides?

      Our table held up to lots of use and weโ€™ve had many people build their own from these instructions without this issue, so Iโ€™d love to help you figure out the problem!

    2. So, we used two 2โ€ long finishing nails at each connection point. If you can zoom into the corners, you can see theyโ€™re offset a bit. That seemed to work for us.

      But if you find your table needs braces or screws, then of course use those!

  18. Hi Shannon. I was wondering about the stains you use. I see from other comments that the tops are done with oil based ones. But then i’m just wondering how you applied water base whitewash on top? It doesn’t really work. I tried it, and indeed, the whitewash is basically flowing off the wood piece due to the oily base underneath. I even sanded it a bit before applying the whitewash but didn’t really help. Did I miss something? Thanks a lot!

    1. Hi Leila. I’m sorry you’re having that issue. Did you wipe off all excess stain before letting it dry (so it wasn’t tacky or sticky)? Did you let the oil based stain FULLY dry and cure (it should be very dry even to the touch)? The water based whitewash does sort of go on like a top coat and does not sink into the wood. So you don’t need to use much.

  19. This table is beautiful and I am really hoping to replicate on two pieces of furniture I have. One oak, the other pine. I noticed in your barn door you used one coat of stain and gray paint. On the table you did layers of dark stain, gray stain, white diluted paint. Why the difference in process for a similar look?
    When you say wait between stain layers until completely dry, are you saying dry to the touch? In my other reading in prep for this project I found I am supposed to wait 72 hours after applying oil based stain to put on the paint. Perhaps the two stains can be applied closer together, then wait 3 days for paint?