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DIY Brickmaker’s Coffee Table

You have all been so patient!

Since we posted the reveal of our Restoration Hardware Inspired DIY Brickmaker’s Coffee Table, a few of you have emailed and messaged asking when the DIY post would be up.

Well, here it is!

Better late than never, right?

Restoration Hardware Inspired DIY Brickmaker's Coffee Table

RH BRICKMAKERS TABLE COLLAGE

My hubby Dean works in sheet metal for those of you who are new around here. BUT for this coffee table we wanted to come up with a metal-looking option that didn’t actually require metal, or your very own sheet metal worker!

So our table is made entirely of wood – legs and all!

DIY Brickmaker’s Coffee Table

brickmaker's table dimensions

Materials

  • 4 – 2″x6″x8′ pine
  • 2 – 2″x2″x8′ pine
  • 2 – 2″x2″x8′ pine
  • 1 – 2″x2″x4′ pine
  • 4 – 3/8″ plated hex bolts, 1 1/2″ long
  • 2” finishing nails
  • #8 flathead screws 2 1/2″ long
  • dark walnut stain
  • white paint
  • water
  • grey stain
  • Rustoleum Metallic Accents paint in rich brown

Cut List

  • 8 – 2″x6″x45″ pine (table top)
  • 4 – 2″x2″x45″ pine (top and bottom of frame)
  • 4 – 2″x2″x42″ pine (top and bottom of frame)
  • 4 –  2″x2″x11″ pine (legs)

Tools

  • measuring tape
  • pencil
  • compound miter saw
  • hammer
  • drill & drill bits
  • 7/8″ spade bit
  • paint brushes

Instructions

1. Once your materials are cut to size, build two squares from the 2″x2″x43″s and 2″x2″x45″s. Simply nail together with finishing nails and hammer. This will be the top and bottom of the “metal” frame.

top and bottom base

2. Add vertical pieces (legs) as shown below, also affixing with nails.

top and bottom with legs

3. Begin adding top pieces as shown, adding screws from bottom so they aren’t seen. Leave 1/8″ between each board.

adding top

adding top 2

4. To add hex bolts, after assembly pre-drill 1/8″ holes into tabletop’s side 12 1/2″ from end. Repeat at other end. Repeat for two holes on opposite side. This is to guide the larger holes. Using spade bit centered on 1/8″ holes, drill 1/2″ depth to sink hex bolt. Then using 3/8″ drill bit, pre-drill the bolt hole. See photo below.

hex bolts

Finishing Instructions

The finish on this table is what makes it extraordinary, in my opinion. The legs are painted to look like metal and the top is coated with several layers of stain and white/grey washes.

1. Paint base and legs with Rustoleum Metallic Accents paint in rich brown. Apply two coats if necessary. Let dry.

painted legs unfinished top

2. Dark stain the table top using the dark walnut. Let dry.

For a step-by-step tutorial on how to stain wood, check out this post.  

3. Apply a coat of grey stain. Let dry.

4. Mix about a tablespoon of white paint into about a 1/2 cup of water. Use this to white wash over the stained table top boards. Let dry. Repeat steps 2-4 if desired as I did a few times for many layers of stain/paint.

stain and whitewash

And that is  – finally  – the DIY Brickmaker’s Table tutorial!

aka design living room

I'd love it if you'd share:

I'd love to chat with you in the comments!

Comments

  1. Bethany S says

    I love this look and would love to do this for my dining room table. Any suggestions on what to use to seal or protect it after that would keep that same look or coloring?

  2. Naomi says

    This table was so nice and simple to build! However I followed the instructions exactly, and the colour came out nothing like the picture. Much darker and a more burned ash colour. So that was dissapointing

    • Kathleen says

      Hi Shannon- just wanting to make sure when i do this project that I use the correct stain. The link on the blog post takes me to a rust-oleum water based stain, but I read in the comments that you always use oil based? Is the grey and walnut stain that you use also from rust-oleum, and are they all oil based? Thank you so much, can’t wait to build our new coffee table!!

    • Kathleen says

      My apologies- I read through again and saw that the legs are painted, and the top pieces are done with the oil based stain.

  3. Deanna Hoffman says

    Love this table, I am ready to paint my unfinished coffee table. Scared to dive in , but ready for the challenge.

  4. Milady says

    I read in the comments of another one of your posts that you had used 9 layers of stain on this table. Could you elaborate a little more on the staining process? Did you do 1 layer of the dark walnut, followed by 9 layers of gray stain to get the weathered look? Also, did you wait the recommended 4-6 hours before applying another coat of stain?

    The table is absolutely beautiful. I’m looking forward to trying to reproduce this look.

    Cheers!

    • Shannon says

      Hello and thank you! In the finishing step-by-step I do say repeat steps 2-4 if desired. I repeated those steps a few times to get a good layering of stain/paint. 🙂

  5. PATTY says

    HI SHANNON . REALLY LOVE YOUR COFFEE TABLE…. HOW DID YOU ATTACH THE 2×6’s TO THE TOP ? DID YOU ATTACH THEM ALL TOGETHER ? IF SO WHAT DID YOU USE …..WOULD APPRECIATE AN ANSWER…. I WANT TO DO ONE … THANK YOU PATTY FROM OKLA….

  6. Leila says

    Dear Shannon, thanks so much for sharing this idea, cannot wait to do my own one! I just have a couple questions:
    Don’t you need to seal it in the end with something, e.g. wax? If someone spills a drink, won’t it soak into the wood and discolor it?
    Why do we need to leave a tiny gap between the boards? Is it because this is how it was on the other table in the shop, or it’s because wood is still changing after the paint (though I would think it shrinks as it dries)?
    The bolt is only for decoration purposes, right? 😀

    Thanks so much!
    Leila

    • Shannon Acheson says

      Hello Leila,

      You could seal it if you like. We had so many layers of paint and stain on it that it never seemed to make a difference if it got spilled on. We liked the gap in the boards. But also whether the wood shrank or grew would depend a bit on the weather and when you build it. Much like doors in a house that change size ever so slightly with the weather (thus bumps and cracks and such), the wood on the table will do the same. And yes, the bolts in our case were only for decoration!

  7. Ashley says

    I made this table this weekend and the base is super wobbly. The table is not sturdy at all and the finishing nails don’t hold. Any suggestions for how I can fix this? I’m really disappointed that after all that work the table is unusable. Other than disassembling it and rebuilding the base using something better than finishing nails, I don’t know what to do.

    • Shannon Acheson says

      Hello Ashley,

      I’m sorry your table didn’t turn out as expected. I can understand how disappointing that would be!

      May I ask if you changed anything at all from our instructions? Did you change dimensions? Or wood size? Did you screw the top pieces to the frame in all four sides?

      Our table held up to lots of use and we’ve had many people build their own from these instructions without this issue, so I’d love to help you figure out the problem!

    • Shannon Acheson says

      So, we used two 2” long finishing nails at each connection point. If you can zoom into the corners, you can see they’re offset a bit. That seemed to work for us.

      But if you find your table needs braces or screws, then of course use those!

  8. Leila says

    Hi Shannon. I was wondering about the stains you use. I see from other comments that the tops are done with oil based ones. But then i’m just wondering how you applied water base whitewash on top? It doesn’t really work. I tried it, and indeed, the whitewash is basically flowing off the wood piece due to the oily base underneath. I even sanded it a bit before applying the whitewash but didn’t really help. Did I miss something? Thanks a lot!

    • Shannon Acheson says

      Hi Leila. I’m sorry you’re having that issue. Did you wipe off all excess stain before letting it dry (so it wasn’t tacky or sticky)? Did you let the oil based stain FULLY dry and cure (it should be very dry even to the touch)? The water based whitewash does sort of go on like a top coat and does not sink into the wood. So you don’t need to use much.

  9. Amanda R says

    This table is beautiful and I am really hoping to replicate on two pieces of furniture I have. One oak, the other pine. I noticed in your barn door you used one coat of stain and gray paint. On the table you did layers of dark stain, gray stain, white diluted paint. Why the difference in process for a similar look?
    When you say wait between stain layers until completely dry, are you saying dry to the touch? In my other reading in prep for this project I found I am supposed to wait 72 hours after applying oil based stain to put on the paint. Perhaps the two stains can be applied closer together, then wait 3 days for paint?
    Thanks!

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