A few years ago, Dean and I decided to upgrade the flooring in our backsplit, and let me tell you—it made such a difference! We chose gorgeous laminate from Lumber Liquidators, and it completely transformed our space. Since then, I’ve learned a lot about installing laminate flooring, and I’m excited to share my tips and tricks with you. If you’ve been dreaming of a flooring refresh but feel a little intimidated by the DIY process, don’t worry—I’ve got you covered!
Speaking of transforming spaces, you might also enjoy my tutorial on how to shiplap a wall the easy way. It’s another DIY project that packs a big punch when it comes to updating your home.
Step-by-Step Laminate Flooring Installation
Supplies
Materials:
- Laminate flooring (buy 10% extra for cuts and waste)
- Vapor barrier (optional, for basements or concrete subfloors)
- Underlayment/underpad (if your laminate doesn’t have one attached)
- Furniture slides or felt pads
Tools:
- Laminate installation kit (spacers, tapping block, pulling bar)
- Miter saw
- Hammer
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask (optional)
- Knee pads (optional)
Instructions
Step 1 – Wait 48 Hours
We know – waiting is the worst part! But it’s been said that new laminate flooring needs to “acclimate” to the space in which it’s going to be installed by sitting (in the boxes) for 48 hours. We’re not ones to argue with a “rule” that may very well mean the difference between gorgeous floors and thousands of dollars of useless materials!
OPTIONAL Step 2 – Trim Bottom of Door Jambs & Deal With Existing Baseboards
If your space has existing door jambs, you can create a cleaner look to your new floor install if you trim the bottom of the jambs so that the laminate can slide neatly underneath. Using a piece of laminate as a guide, butt it up against the jamb. Mark the jamb with a pencil and trim the jamb with a flat handsaw parallel to the sub floor.
If you already have baseboards in the room, you can do one of two things:
- Remove the baseboards and either reuse or replace them after you install your laminate
- Leave the baseboards and install large quarter round to cover the gap (Step 9)
We didn’t have any door jambs for our install and we replaced the old baseboards with new ones after the laminate was installed.
Step 3 – Clear the Room and Clean Up
You obviously need space to work and your sub floor must be clean and free of dust & debris before you begin laying your new laminate flooring. So sweep up, vacuum, do whatever is necessary to create a clean smooth surface.
OPTIONAL Step 4 – Install Vapor Barrier
If you are installing laminate in a basement, please install vapor barrier before you lay your laminate to help with moisture control. Lumber Liquidators Customer Care Team recommends the following:
A 6 to 8 mil poly sheeting moisture barrier should be laid for floating floors for an On or Below Grade Concrete subfloor. Overlap seams 4″ and tape with duct tape. Overlay perimeter 3-4″ up wall.
Our install was on our main floor, so this step wasn’t necessary for us.
OPTIONAL Step 5 – Install Underlayment/Underpad
If you do not choose a laminate floor with attached underpad, YOU NEED TO INSTALL AN UNDERPAD FIRST!
The underpad will save you from having to re-install your brand new flooring because it smoothes out minor sub-floor imperfections, among other things. You pretty much need to trust us on this!
Ask your manufacturer what underlayment/underpad is suitable for your particular space and choice of laminate.
Again, we skipped this step because our choice of laminate had an attached 3mm underpad.
Step 6 – Install the First Row of Laminate
There is some argument about which way you should lay your floor. Some people say to install it opposite the flow of traffic – so that the same piece(s) aren’t walked on repeatedly day after day. Others say to lay it so that the room looks larger – so parallel to the shortest wall. Really the choice is yours. We’ve done it both ways.
Your first row will set the stage for the rest of the room’s flooring. The most important piece of advice we can give you here is LEAVE A 1/2″ GAP (use spacers) at the wall (so, on three sides). Laminate floors are floating floors and are subject to expansion and contraction. Leaving the gap will prevent buckling – and it will be covered by the baseboards so no one will be the wiser when you’re all finished.
Your first row will have the groove side against the wall. And don’t forget the 1/2″ gap at each end too!
Step 7 – Install the Rest of the Laminate Flooring
This is where the optional knee pads may come in handy!
Each new row will have to be a complete row before you attach it to the row before. In other words, lay out pieces to make a full row (staggering seams for strength and visual interest) and join those pieces together before you attach it to the previous row.
Then align the tongue and groove and tap row in place using the hammer and tapping block. In all honestly this may take some finessing. We had some really long rows that extended all the way from the living room through the dining room too. In those cases I would hold one end in place to keep the seams from separating while Dean tapped the other end into place.
You can use the off-cut of the previous row to start the next row to help with the random seam staggering.
Repeat, repeat, repeat…
Step 8 – Install the Final Row of Laminate
This last row will likely have to be “ripped” to fit in place. Measure carefully and don’t forget your 1/2″ gap! Trim and install using the pulling bar to help with the fit.
Step 9 – The Finishing Touches (Baseboards, Stairnose & Thresholds)
So far the room will be looking pretty good sporting its new laminate. But this last step is where it is really finished.
Remove the spacers and install baseboards (and in some cases quarter round) around your room’s perimeter.
Next install any necessary stair nose. This gets glued down, FYI!
Finally, install thresholds where your new laminate meets a different type of flooring or in any doorways, etc. Some thresholds will just cover the gap and will sort of look like a T shape when you look at the end. Some will bridge the gap between a slightly higher or lower adjoining floor.
The laminate we chose didn’t actually have matching thresholds, so we bought unfinished thresholds and stained them to match (in our case three coats of Minwax Dark Walnut did the trick).
Tips for Installing Laminate Flooring
- Make sure your subfloor is level. If it’s uneven, use a self-leveler.
- Check with the manufacturer to ensure your laminate is suitable for kitchens or bathrooms.
- Add felt pads to all furniture to protect your new floors.
- Always follow the instructions provided with your specific laminate.
- Use safety gear like glasses and a dust mask when cutting planks.
FAQs
For a medium-sized room, expect to spend a weekend on the project, including prep work and finishing touches.
No, laminate flooring requires a solid, level subfloor. Remove any carpet before starting.
Yes, always leave a ½-inch gap to allow for expansion. The gaps will be hidden by baseboards or molding.
Most laminates are water-resistant but not fully waterproof. For kitchens or bathrooms, look for products labeled as waterproof.
More DIY Renovation Projects
- DIY Board and Batten Tutorial
- DIY Barn Door and DIY Barn Door Track That Won’t Break the Bank!
- How to Install Baseboards, Plus How to Caulk Them Easily
- How to Remove Baseboards without Damage (for Reuse)
- Get a Beautiful Designer Look When You Paint Your Interior Doors!
- How To Install Laminate Flooring
- DIY Coffered Ceiling – How to DIY a Professional Looking Coffered Ceiling for Less than $500!
How to Install Laminate Flooring Tutorial
Learn how to install laminate flooring with this step-by-step DIY guide, including tips, tricks, and FAQs to ensure a flawless finish.
Materials
- Laminate flooring (buy 10% extra for cuts and waste)
- Vapor barrier (optional, for basements or concrete subfloors)
- Underlayment/underpad (if your laminate doesn’t have one attached)
- Furniture slides or felt pads
Tools
- Laminate installation kit (spacers, tapping block, pulling bar)
- Miter saw
- Hammer
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Safety glasses
- Dust mask (optional)
- Knee pads (optional)
Instructions
Step 1: Wait 48 Hours
I know waiting isn’t fun, but it’s essential! Let your laminate sit in the room for 48 hours to acclimate to the temperature and humidity. Trust me—this step prevents warping later on.
Optional Step 2: Trim Door Jambs & Deal with Baseboards
For a clean, professional look, trim the bottoms of your door jambs so the laminate can slide underneath. Use a piece of laminate as a guide, mark the jamb, and trim it with a flat handsaw.
When it comes to baseboards, you have two options:
- Remove and reinstall them after the laminate is down.
- Leave them in place and cover the gap with quarter-round molding later.
We replaced our old baseboards after installing the flooring—it made everything look fresh and polished.
Step 3: Clear the Room and Clean Up
Empty the space completely and clean the subfloor thoroughly. A smooth, debris-free surface is crucial for a successful install.
Optional Step 4: Install a Vapor Barrier
If you’re installing laminate in a basement or on a concrete subfloor, add a vapor barrier to protect against moisture. Overlap seams by 4 inches, tape them down, and extend the barrier a few inches up the walls.
Optional Step 5: Install Underlayment/Underpad
If your laminate doesn’t have an attached underpad, you’ll need to install one first. It smooths out minor imperfections and protects your flooring. Always check with your manufacturer for specific recommendations.
Step 6: Install the First Row of Laminate
This step sets the foundation for the entire project. Lay the first row with the groove side facing the wall, and be sure to leave a ½-inch gap on all sides for expansion. Use spacers to keep the gap consistent.
Step 7: Install the Remaining Rows
Stagger your seams for strength and a polished look. Connect the planks for each row before attaching them to the previous row. Use a tapping block and hammer to secure the tongue-and-groove connections. This part might require a little finesse, especially for long rows!
Step 8: Install the Final Row
The last row will likely need trimming to fit. Measure carefully, leaving that ½-inch gap, and use a pulling bar to secure it in place.
Step 9: Add Finishing Touches
Now for the fun part!
Remove spacers and reinstall baseboards or add quarter-round molding.
Install stair noses if needed (use glue for this step).
Add thresholds for doorways or transitions between flooring types.
We couldn’t find matching thresholds for our laminate, so we stained unfinished ones to match—three coats of Minwax Dark Walnut did the trick!
Installing laminate flooring is a satisfying DIY project that can completely transform your space. I hope this guide gives you the confidence to tackle it yourself! Have you ever installed laminate flooring? I’d love to hear about your experience—let’s chat in the comments below!
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Rose Cutting
thanks will check it out.
thanks will check it out.